Jun 1, 2007

Rebuliding credit after Bankruptcy or Credit Counseling

So your credit isn’t great. It may even be suffering after a bankruptcy. Don’t give up — it’s possible to bounce back and rebuild your credit history. The most important thing to remember is that from now on, any credit you keep or open must be paid on time, every time. You will begin creating a better credit picture in just a few payment cycles, a positive trend that potential creditors can use to gauge how serious you are about putting your credit past behind you. In fact, being able to repay a variety of new accounts is a key step toward rebuilding your credit. So, devising a strategy to open and pay off as many different kinds of accounts as you can is a better objective than simply adding more debt to an existing credit card — especially if you’re working toward future goals such as a mortgage or other large loan. 1. Rebuilding your credit can be similar to starting over from scratch, and starting small may be the easiest option. Credit cards from department stores or your local credit union can be useful.

2. If you can’t qualify on your own, ask a friend or family member to co-sign for a small loan or credit card. If you can stay current on a major credit-card account or small auto loan, this will speed up the process of re-establishing good credit on your own.

3. Still no luck? Consider a secured credit card, which is guaranteed by a deposit that you make with the credit grantor. The cards offer the purchasing power of a major credit card. Just make sure the grantor reports payment histories to one of the three major credit bureaus so you’re building your positive payment history.

4.Use your new accounts in moderation and make payments that are more than the minimum. You can keep a small balance so that your positive payment history will continue to show up on your credit report.

5. Avoid carrying a balance that is more than 30 percent of your credit limit (creditors may view it as excessive debt that you may not be able to stay current with).

6. If you have money set aside, you can open such accounts for the sole purpose of paying them off. It takes some time for your new credit history to gain momentum. You’ll be demonstrating that you are not depending on certain credit cards and loans for survival. That’s why opening and paying down accounts may make it a little easier to get more credit. With patience and timely repayments, you will likely be able to build a new credit history that creditors will look upon favorably when making decisions about your ability to handle even more credit.

This information is provided from ConsumerInfo.com, an Experian company.

How to correct and protect your credit.

If there are inaccuracies in your credit report, you have the right to correct them. Here’s how to do it.

Under the federal Fair Credit Reporting Act, both the consumer reporting agency (CRA) and the organization, such as a bank or credit card company, that provided the information to the CRA have responsibilities for correcting inaccurate or incomplete information in your credit report. To protect all your rights under the law, contact both the CRA and the information provider. Write the CRA, stating the information you believe is inaccurate. Include copies (not originals) of documents that support your position. In addition to providing your complete name and address, your letter should clearly identify each disputed item in your report and factually explain why you dispute the information, requesting deletion or correction of those items. You may want to enclose a copy of your report with the items in question circled. Send your letter by certified mail, return receipt requested, so you can document what the CRA received. Keep copies of your dispute letter and enclosures. CRAs must investigate the items in question, usually within 30 days, unless they consider your dispute frivolous. They also must forward all relevant data you provide about the dispute to the information provider. After the information provider receives notice of a dispute from the CRA, it must investigate, review all relevant information provided by the CRA, and report the results to the CRA. If the information provider finds the disputed information to be inaccurate, it must notify all nationwide CRAs so they can correct this information in your file. The FCRA also requires that:

  • Disputed information that cannot be verified must be deleted from your file.
  • If your report contains erroneous information, the CRA must correct it.
  • If an item is incomplete, the CRA must complete it. For example, if your file showed that you were late making payments, but failed to show that you are no longer delinquent, the CRA must show that you are now current.
  • If your file shows an account that belongs only to another person, the CRA must delete it.

When the investigation is complete, the CRA must give you the written results and a free copy of your report if the dispute results in a change. If an item is changed or removed, the CRA cannot put the disputed information back in your file unless the information provider verifies its accuracy and completeness, and the CRA gives you a written notice that includes the name, address, and phone number of the provider.

Also, if you request, the CRA must send notices of corrections to anyone who received your report in the past six months. Job applicants can have a corrected copy of their report sent to anyone who received a copy during the past two years for employment purposes. If an investigation does not resolve your dispute, ask the CRA to include your statement of the dispute in your file and in future reports. In addition to writing to the CRA, tell the creditor or other information provider in writing that you dispute an item. Again, include copies (not originals) of documents that support your position. Many providers specify an address for disputes. If the provider then reports the item to any CRA, it must include a notice of your dispute. In addition, if you are correct and the disputed information is not accurate, the information provider may not use it again. This information is adapted from "Bound For Good Credit" published by the Federal Trade Commission.

How to Avoid and Stop Identity Theft.

According to TransUnion’s Fraud Victim Assistance Department, the top 10 underlying causes of credit fraud and identity theft are*:

1. Theft of employer / other multi-person records 2. Credit card skimming 3. Mail theft 4. Social Engineering (misrepresentation to obtain personal information; often via phone) 5. Lost / stolen purse or wallet 6. Improper disposal of credit card receipts and statements 7. Database intrusion (credit card account numbers) 8. Dishonest employee 9. Eavesdropping / wandering eyes 10. Domestic / elder abuse These days, many people use the Internet to purchase goods, conduct their personal banking and pay bills. For the most part, these transactions are secure and the risk to the consumer is low. However, even the most innovative Internet business security system is not foolproof.

1. Don’t give your Social Security number to, as this is the main piece of information targeted by identity theft criminals. A good rule to follow: Only provide your Social Security number to trusted individuals or companies with which you initiated contact. Never, ever provide your Social Security number based on a telephone, mail or email solicitation.

When you apply for a loan, ask that your Social Security number be truncated or blocked out on the paper application. Additionally, monitor the lender’s use of your credit report. Ask the lender/loan officer who pulls your report to shred the copy once they have reviewed it. Never print your Social Security number on your checks.

2. Shred old paperwork and mail that contains personal or financial information prior to disposing of it. Many identity thieves dig through trashcans, in search of a potential victim’s personal information.

3. Make a list of account numbers, expiration dates and telephone numbers for each credit card you own. Keep this list in a safe place, for use if your purse or wallet is stolen. This will allow you to quickly and easily contact your creditors and report your information as stolen.

4. Carefully review your credit card statements each month before paying them.

5. Subscribe to a credit monitoring service that will notify you each time someone applies for credit in your name. Make sure the company reports in real time. Some companies report only weekly, or once a month, which does not allow you sufficient time to deter possible identity theft. Fraudulent Email Another tactic would-be credit thieves use in an attempt to steal your personal information is fraudulent email, a.k.a. “phishing”. These emails appear to come from legitimate businesses, particularly banks and other financial institutions, and are often difficult to discern from the real thing. The email usually states the business requires an update of your personal and financial information, and provides a link. Normally, the “phishers” ask for information such as your password or pin number, credit card validation code, credit card/debit card number, bank account number and Social Security number. To lure you into providing this information, the thief will generally include some kind of dire warning or threat – such as cancellation of your account if you do not immediately update your information. If you click on the link in the email, you will be taken to a Web site that looks legitimate, but beware! This is actually a scheme designed to capture an unwitting consumer’s information, and by clicking on the link, you can cause logging software to be installed onto your computer. This software will record information you type on your computer, such as your account numbers, user IDs and passwords, etc., and automatically send a report back to the thief. If you receive an email communication from a company, which you believe to be legitimate, call the business using a number you already have in your possession. Or, simply open a new Web browser and type in the company’s URL yourself. Once you’re at the business’ home page, you can perform the task requested in the email. Other tips for keeping your personal information safe online

  • Run a virus scan on a regular basis.
  • Use hard-to-guess passwords, and change them frequently.
  • Check your online accounts and credit statements often. Watch for unfamiliar charges or withdrawals.

If you believe you may have been the victim of identity theft or fraud, please visit the FTC’s “Take Charge: Fight Back Against Identity Theft. This federal government web page offers helpful advice on recovering from, and fighting back against, identity theft. Are you or someone you know in the military? Considering an “active duty alert.” If you are a member of the military and away from your usual duty station, you may place an “active duty alert” on your credit report to help minimize the risk of identity theft while you are deployed. When a business sees the alert on your credit report, it must verify your identity before issuing you credit. The business may try to contact you directly, but if you’re on deployment, that may be impossible. As a result, the law allows you to use a personal representative to place or remove an alert. Active duty alerts on your report are effective for one year, unless you request that the alert be removed sooner. If your deployment lasts longer, you may place another alert on your report. To place an “active duty” alert, or to have it removed, call the toll-free fraud number of one of the three nationwide consumer reporting companies: Equifax, Experian, or TransUnion. The company will require you to provide appropriate proof of your identity, which may include your Social Security number, your name, address, and other personal information. Equifax: 1-800-525-6285; www.equifax.com Experian: 1-888-EXPERIAN (397-3742); www.experian.com TransUnion: 1-800-680-7289; www.transunion.com Contact only one of the three companies to place an alert — the company you call is required to contact the other two, which will place an alert on their versions of your report, as well. If your contact information changes before your alert expires, remember to update it. When you place an active duty alert, your name will be removed from the nationwide consumer reporting companies’ marketing lists for prescreened offers of credit and insurance for two years — unless you ask that your name be placed on the lists before then. Prescreened offers — sometimes called “preapproved” offers — are based on information in your credit report that indicates you meet certain criteria set by the company making the offer. To learn more about identity theft and your credit rights under the Fair Credit Reporting Act and the Fair and Accurate Credit Transactions Act, visit http://www.ftc.gov/credit.

Tips on Debt Consolidation/ Debt management plans

Debt consolidation involves taking on new debt to pay off your existing debt immediately. When a debt consolidation program is put together in the right way, it can help you pay less money and get out of debt faster than you would have done otherwise. A big part of good debt consolidation is to make sure that you get yourself a much lower interest rate on your new debt than you had on all your other debts. Quick tips to debt consolidation -

1. Face to face: Free debt consolidation counselors' talk directly with you, helping find ways for you to pay off your debt while saving you money. Keeping this in mind you can find the right solution for your needs.

2. Pay later: Remember, while debt consolidation quotes may be free, the costs for these services often aren't mentioned until the cash is practically in hand. So one needs to be very careful while considering change in debt hands.

3. Use home equity:Consider debt consolidation by getting online as well as offline quotes for a Home Equity Line of Credit-which often features lower rates than other debts. Three top strategies for debt consolidation: consolidate to a single low-or-no-interest card, get a low-interest loan, or tap into home equity.

4. Read the fine print: The term "debt consolidation" may be used interchangeably by several companies offering very, very different types of services and end results. So it is recommended to choose carefully. Avoid collection calls, liens and lawsuits by consulting a professional debt reduction company; they can often eliminate debt for pennies on the dollar.

5. Check certifications: There are numerous mushrooming financial institutions touting debt relief without verified accreditations. To help ensure you're working with a reputable debt consolidation firm, search for one certified by the National Institute for Financial Counseling Education.

6. Proceed with caution: Debt consolidation loans encourage tendencies already leading to financial challenges. By taking on yet another creditor, you're adding fuel to the fire. Be very sure of your repayment strategies and capabilities before you take on this additional burden.

7. Last resort: Considering signing up for a debt consolidation program only after a certified credit counselor has spent time carefully reviewing your financial situation.

8. Research firms: Check out any company offering debt consolidation services with your local consumer protection agency and the Better Business Bureau in the company's location.

9. Get going: One primary key to consolidating debt is to have a clear plan of action for making payments and reducing monthly interest charges. Unless you're offered a compelling, lower interest rate for consolidating multiple credit cards, the savings might not justify the effort and hassle.

10. Online Quotes: For the fastest debt consolidation loans available, look to the Web. Online lenders are well knows for providing the fastest debt consolidation loans to people all over the United States. As long as you have all of your debt information ready to provide them, these lenders can take you from application to approval to disbursement in a matter of days. Some reputable debt-settlement firms (search several online) can often reduce your debt as much as 75% or more-without a credit checks.

Debt management plans

#1 Confront the problem Always take a good look at what you are dealing with. Have a clear idea of how much you owe and how much interest you are paying. These facts will help you to devise the plan of attack. Find ways to reduce down the spending and if possible stop using your credit card. Look for quick repayment and raise a little extra cash that can be used to spend down those bills.

#2 Transfer high-interest balances to lower-rate cards Try to deal and transfer your high-interest balances to lower-rate cards. But also keep in mind that if your credit history shambles; you will not qualify the deals. Before applying for these deals, also read the fine prints.

#3 Call your lenders You think that you are not getting all the benefits from the offers, try contact your lenders and ask for lower your rates. Though it will not drop to zero percent, it could very well drop considerable percent points. If you find that the customer service representative does not help you to lower your rate, ask to speak to the supervisor. Else simply threaten to transfer your balance to another credit card.

#4 Tackle the highest-interest card first Once you have covered all you could to lower your interest rate, the next step would be to figure out which debt to tackle first. It is preferable to pay off the debt with lowest balance first so that you can see fast results. It's a fine plan, but if you really want to pay off your debt quickly, focus on the debt with the highest interest rate and pay the minimum on the rest (advices experts).

#5 Beware mismanagement If your debt is spiraling out of control, you might seek benefit from the credit-counseling agency services. These nonprofit organizations help consumers pay off overwhelming debts by lowering their interest rates or placing them in so-called Debt Management Plans (DMPs). These plans help the consumers to send check to the agency, which then disburses it to creditors. But one should also be careful when selecting the firm. Though many credit counselors remain dedicated to helping consumers, most have own profit in mind.

Dos and Don'ts for Residential Mortgage

Five Dos for residential mortgage:

-Try and make all your loan and debt payments on time. Every 30-, 60-, or 90-day delinquency on a loan or credit is going to reduce the credit score the lender ends up considering as part of the loan file. The score in turn will determine the residential mortgage loan you get.

-If missing something becomes essential, miss the credit card payment first, followed by the installment loan payment and finally the existing residential mortgage loan. Credit scoring systems look at the performance of similar loan first before deciding the type of score to assign.

-Try to pay off all the debts and put down a smaller amount at the time of closing. This leaves the borrower with larger mortgages but also allow them to replace non tax-deductible, high-interest rate debt with lower-rate residential mortgage debt that features deductible interest.

-If multiple financial obligations are going to pop up in the near future, get the residential mortgage first. Certain credit enquiries such as new applications for credit cards can hurt a borrower's credit score, especially if they are filed in the months prior to the home loan review process.

-Try to increase the size of the down payment on your residential mortgage through solid savings. Putting the savings into something volatile like individual stock is highly avoidable. This is also advisable to evaluate money market or other accounts that offer reasonable rates of return, automatic payroll deductions or other financial incentives to save.

Five don'ts for residential mortgage:

-If you have just got into a residential mortgage deal, then it is highly recommended to avoid any big purchases over the next couple of months. This might make less money available for the down payment that might also end up to another loan.

-Don't go for a very expensive house if your budget doesn't support. If you start with a relatively small monthly housing payment and move to a huge one, it will end up covering too much loan with too small money.

-Don't try to get pre-qualified for your residential mortgages rather get pre-approved. Before getting pre-approved, you must also allow the lenders to pull credit reports, check debt-to-income ratios and also to perform other underwriting steps. This might put you closer to obtain a loan.

-Don't forget your money personality while getting a residential mortgage. Save and accumulate equity faster by going with the shorter term and higher payment if possible.

-Don't forget the burden a homeownership brings. The cost of defaulting on a residential mortgage loan is might be much greater than the penalty of missing a rent payment. If you have too many black marks on the financial history, the interest credit will rise higher than you can ever handle.

Foreclosure timeline (Bank Rate)

Day 1

Mortgage payment due today, the first of the month. Borrower misses it.

Day 16-30

Late charge assessed on payment. Mortgage servicer starts attempting to make contact to find out what happened.

Day 45-60

Day 90-105

Day 150-415

Day 150-415+

After the sale, some states grant borrowers a "redemption period" in which they can still rebuy the property if they have the money. Others force consumers out immediately following the auction.

10 questions to ask your mortgage lender (Bank Rate)

1. What is the interest rate on this mortgage? To determine exactly what you'll pay over the term of the loan, you need to know the rate. Rates change quickly, and if your credit is less than perfect, you may not be offered the lender's lowest figure.

To effectively compare different lenders' programs, ask for the annual percentage rate (APR) of the mortgage interest, which is generally higher than the initial quoted rate because it includes some fees. But beware: the APR found in advertisements can be misleading. Mortgage lenders don't always include all the fees they charge in the calculation that determines APR, so customers who use that figure to shop rather than an itemized breakdown of rates, points and fees may end up comparing apples to oranges.

2. How many discount and origination points will I pay? Lenders may charge prepaid mortgage interest points to lower your interest rate or other points that have no benefit to you at all. Find out how many you'll be expected to pay and which kind of points they will be.

3. What are the closing costs? Mortgages come with fees for various services provided by lenders and other parties involved in the transaction. You want to know what those fees will be as early as possible. Lenders are required to provide a written good faith estimate of closing costs within three days of receiving a loan application.

4. When can I lock the interest rate and what will it cost me to do so? Your interest rate might fluctuate between the time you apply and closing. To prevent it from going up, you may want to lock the rate, and even points, for a specified period. Ask your lender if lock fees apply. Also, find out what the experts are expecting rates to do, read Rate Trend Index.

5. Is there a prepayment penalty on this loan? There may be a prepayment penalty on your loan. Some penalties are 1 percent of the loan amount, others are equal to six months' interest, some apply only when you refinance or reduce the principal balance by more than 20 percent, and some kick in if you sell your home. Find out the duration of any penalty period and how the penalty is calculated. Some lenders offer lower interest rates to buyers who accept prepayment penalties.

6. What is the minimum down payment required for this loan? The rate and terms of your loan will be based on a down payment figure, typically 3 to 20 percent of the buy price. If you can put more money down, you may be able to lower your rate and improve your terms; if you come up short, you may be required to get mortgage insurance.

7. What are the qualifying guidelines for this loan? These requirements relate to your income, employment, assets, liabilities and credit history. First-time home buyer programs, VA loans and other government-sponsored mortgage programs typically offer easier qualifying guidelines than conventional loans.

8. What documents will I have to provide? Most lenders will require proof of income and assets before approving your loan, and may require other documents as well. Buyers with excellent credit may qualify for a no-documentation or "no-doc" loan, but they can expect to pay a hefty down payment and higher interest rate.

9. How long will it take to process my loan application? The answer will depend on a number of variables. When the loan business is brisk, underwriters get backed up, verification takes longer, appraisals move slower and other bottlenecks develop along the loan pipeline. Lenders may say two weeks, but 45 to 60 days is probably more realistic in most cases. You'll need their best guess to determine how long to lock in your loan.

10. What might delay approval of my loan? If you provide the lender with complete, accurate information, the loan process should run smoothly. If the underwriter discovers credit problems, however, there could be delays. Make sure you notify your lender if you change jobs, increase or decrease your salary, incur additional debt or change marital status between the time you submit an application and the time the loan is funded.

Just what goes into the score? (Bank Rate)

Buying a car? Most car dealers want to know your credit score when you walk in the door, says Bob Kurilko, vice president of product development and marketing for Edmunds.com, an online consumer resource for automotive issues. "They want to know how they can put a loan together for you."

The score has made it easier for many people to get credit, Kurilko says.

Before, it was up to individual lending institutions to come up with their own criteria, he says. "They would hedge their risk and tend to go conservatively. It's opened up lending to a lot more people."

Consumers' rights Until recently, many Americans didn't even know this number existed because it was a closely guarded secret in the lending industry. In fact, lenders were prohibited from telling borrowers their credit score. The line of reasoning: The number was the result of analyzing complex financial data that the layperson would have difficulty understanding. Plus, if people knew their score (according to the industry mindset at the time), they might be able to change their behavior to manipulate the score and throw off the whole model, rendering it useless.

All that changed a few years ago, when consumers began finding out about the score and demanding to see it. In an unprecedented move in 2000, online lender E-Loan offered to give consumers their scores for free, with information explaining how the score is calculated and how they might improve it. Fair Isaac responded by cutting E-Loan off from its source of credit reports, effectively crippling its ability to lend money. E-Loan stopped giving away credit scores.

Public outcry on the possibility of people being denied credit based on bad information in credit reports led to several pieces of legislation -- and a much more open attitude about credit scores.

Fast forward to current day: Not only can consumers buy their score online from any number of sources, but everyone is entitled to a free copy of their credit report every 12 months from each of the three major credit bureaus -- Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. The program rolled out across the nation one geographical region at a time with all consumers eligible on Sept. 1, 2005.

Key factors of your score Just what goes into the score? Everything in your credit report, with different kinds of information carrying differing weights, says Fair Isaac Corp. Public Affairs Manager Craig Watts. The FICO-scoring model looks at more than 20 factors in five categories. (The VantageScore relies on slightly different factors.)

1. How you pay your bills (35 percent of the score) The most important factor is how you've paid your bills in the past, placing the most emphasis on recent activity. Paying all your bills on time is good. Paying them late on a consistent basis is bad. Having accounts that were sent to collections is worse. Declaring bankruptcy is worst.

2. Amount of money you owe and the amount of available credit (30 percent) The second most important area is your outstanding debt -- how much money you owe on credit cards, car loans, mortgages, home equity lines, etc. Also considered is the total amount of credit you have available. If you have 10 credit cards that each have $10,000 credit limits, that's $100,000 of available credit. Statistically, people who have a lot of credit available tend to use it, which makes them a less attractive credit risk.

"Carrying a lot of debt doesn't necessarily mean you'll have a lower score," Watts says. "It doesn't hurt as much as carrying close to the maximum. People who consistently max out their balances are perceived as riskier. People who never use their credit don't have a track history. People with the highest scores use credit sparingly and keep their balances low."

3. Length of credit history (15 percent) The third factor is the length of your credit history. The longer you've had credit -- particularly if it's with the same credit issuers -- the more points you get.

4. Mix of credit (10 percent) The best scores will have a mix of both revolving credit, such as credit cards, and installment credit, such as mortgages and car loans. "Statistically, consumers with a richer variety of experiences are better credit risks," Watts says. "They know how to handle money."

5. New credit applications (10 percent) The final category is your interest in new credit -- how many credit applications you're filling out. The model compensates for people who are rate shopping for the best mortgage or car loan rates. The only time shopping really hurts your score, Watts says, is when you have previous recent credit stumbles, such as late payments or bills sent to collections.

"Then, looking for new credit will be seen as an alarm because statistically, before people declare bankruptcy and default on everything, they look for a life preserver," Watts says. Also, if you have a very young credit file, an inquiry can count for more than if you've had credit for a long time.

What doesn't count in a score The scoring model doesn't look at:

  • age
  • race
  • sex
  • job or length of employment at your job
  • income
  • education
  • marital status
  • whether you've been turned down for credit
  • length of time at your current address
  • whether you own a home or rent
  • information not contained in your credit report

A lender may consider all those factors when deciding whether to approve a loan application, but they aren't part of how a FICO score is calculated, Watts says.

Credit scores are not perfect The major drawback to credit scoring is that it relies on information in your credit report, which is quite likely to contain errors. That's why it's critical that you check your credit reports annually, or at the very least three to six months before planning to buy a house or a car. That will give you sufficient time to correct any errors before a lender pulls your score.

Watts says that the need for accuracy in credit files is one reason why it's good for consumers to learn about credit scores.

"There's a hope that as consumers know about credit reports and scores, they'll do more to correct errors and provide more oversight," he says. "If consumers can police the accuracy of their own reports, everybody gains."

How credit scores work? How a score is calculated? (Bank Rate)

Ever wonder why you can go online and be approved for credit within 60 seconds? Or get pre-qualified for a car without anyone even asking you how much money you make? Or why you get one interest rate on loans, while your neighbor gets another?

The answer is credit scoring.

Your credit score is a number generated by a mathematical algorithm -- a formula -- based on information in your credit report, compared to information on tens of millions of other people. The resulting number is a highly accurate prediction of how likely you are to pay your bills.

If it sounds arcane and unimportant, you couldn't be more wrong. Credit scores are used extensively, and if you've gotten a mortgage, a car loan, a credit card or auto insurance, the rate you received was directly related to your credit score. The higher the number, the better you look to lenders. People with the highest scores get the lowest interest rates.

Scoring categories Lenders can use one of many different credit-scoring models to determine if you are creditworthy. Different models can produce different scores. However, lenders use some scoring models more than others. The FICO score is one such popular scoring method.

Its scale runs from 300 to 850. The vast majority of people will have scores between 600 and 800. A score of 720 or higher will get you the most favorable interest rates on a mortgage, according to data from Fair Isaac Corp., a California-based company that developed the first credit score as well as the FICO score.

Fair Isaac reports that the American public's credit scores break out along these lines:

Credit score

Percentage

499 and below

2 percent

500-549

5 percent

550-599

8 percent

600-649

12 percent

650-699

15 percent

700-749

18 percent

750-799

27 percent

800 and above

13 percent

Currently, each of the three major credit bureaus uses their own version of the FICO scoring method -- Equifax has the BEACON score, Experian has the Experian/Fair Isaac Risk Model and TransUnion has the EMPIRICA score. The three versions can come up with varying scores because they use different algorithms. (Variance can also occur because of differences in data contained in different credit reports.)

That could change, depending on whether a new credit-scoring model catches on. It's called the VantageScore. Equifax, Experian and TransUnion collaborated on its development and will all use the same algorithm to compute the score. Consumers can order their VantageScores online at Experian's Web site for $6. Its scoring range runs from 501 to 990 with a corresponding letter grade from A to F. So, a score of 501 to 600 would receive an F, while a score of 901 to 990 would receive an A. Just like in school, A is the best grade you can get.

What's the big deal? No matter which scoring model lenders use, it pays to have a great credit score. Your credit score affects whether you get credit or not, and how high your interest rate will be. A better score can lower your interest rate.

The difference in the interest rates offered to a person with a score of 520 and a person with a 720 score is 4.36 percentage points, according to Fair Isaac's Web site. On a $100,000, 30-year mortgage, that difference would cost more than $110,325 extra in interest charges. The difference in the monthly payment alone would be about $307.

Powerful little number If you rented an apartment, got braces, bought cell phone service, applied for a job that involved handling a lot of money, or needed to get utilities connected, there's a good chance your score was pulled.

If you have an existing credit card, the issuer is likely to look at your credit score to decide whether to increase your credit line -- or charge you a higher interest rate, according to a credit scoring study by the Consumer Federation of America and the National Credit Reporting Association.

ARM vs. fixed-rate mortgage, (Bank Rate)

Adjustable-rate mortgages
Advantages Disadvantages
Fixed-rate mortgages
Advantages Disadvantages
What should you consider, when trying to decide between Fixed or ARM Loan

All of these things should factor into your decision between a fixed-rate mortgage and an adjustable. But there are other important questions to answer when deciding which loan is better for you:

1. How long do you plan on staying in the home? If you're only going to be living in the house a few years, it would make sense to take the lower-rate ARM, especially if you can get a reasonably priced 3/1 or 5/1. Your payment and rate will be low and you can build up more savings for a bigger home down the road. Plus, you'll never be exposed to huge rate adjustments because you'll be moving before the adjustable rate period begins.

2. How frequently does the ARM adjust, and when is the adjustment made? After the initial fixed period, most ARMs adjust every year on the anniversary of the mortgage. The new rate is actually set about 45 days before the anniversary, based on the specified index. But some adjust as frequently as every month. If that's too much volatility for you, go with a fixed-rate mortgage.

3. What's the interest rate environment like? When rates are relatively high, ARMs make sense because their lower initial rates allow borrowers to still reap the benefits of homeownership. Rates could fall even further, meaning borrowers will have a decent chance of getting lower payments even if they don't refinance. When rates are relatively low, however, fixed-rate mortgages make more sense. After all, 7 percent is a great rate to borrow money at for 30 years.

4. Could you still afford your monthly payment if interest rates rise significantly? On a $150,000, one-year adjustable-rate mortgage with 2/6 caps, your 5.75 percent ARM could end up at 11.75 percent, with the monthly payment shooting up as well.

What is Seller financing?

Seller financing With seller financing, the seller actually assists the buyer in purchasing the home, by "lending" the buyer either a portion of the amount to be financed or the entire amount.

Let's say the buyer and seller agree on a price of $150,000 for the house. In many cases a lending institution would require a 20-percent down payment -- $30,000 -- and give the buyer a mortgage for $120,000. But if the buyer has only $15,000 cash, the seller could "take back" a second mortgage for the $15,000 the buyer is short. The buyer makes payments on the first loan to the bank and the second loan to the seller.

Another example of seller financing: If the sale price of the home is $150,000 and the buyer has only $15,000 for a down payment, the buyer gives the $15,000 down payment directly to the seller who agrees to carry the entire mortgage amount of $135,000. The buyer would make all payments directly to the seller. Pro: Seller financing reduces the cash needed to get into a home and could dramatically reduce closing costs. Often the seller will be more flexible in accepting an under qualified buyer.

Con: The seller determines the interest rate for that portion of the mortgage being carried, and it usually comes with a higher rate and a shorter term. Perhaps most importantly, it very often comes with a balloon payment. This means that monthly payments would be computed as though the mortgage was to continue for, say, 30 years, but at the end of five or 10 years the entire remaining balance has to be paid in one lump sum. That normally requires refinancing at that point, when rates could either be lower, higher or about the same, or selling the house to meet that balloon payment.